Ceramic tiles won’t stick to an enamel-painted floor because the surface is too smooth. However, there is a remedy to the problem. Sheets of cement backing, available from most shops, provide a foundation on which to put tile adhesive.
Putting the Backing Sheets
Attach backing sheets into the floor that is enamel. Use a nail gun and nails to get this done.
Cut the sheets with a saw into the sizes required to fill any gaps left round the edges of the room. Nail these. It’s crucial that the whole enamel-painted floor is coated.
Remove any dust or dirt. Do this very carefully, using a spray or soft cloth. The presence of dirt can make an irregular surface if you do not.
Putting the Tiles
By snapping a chalk line between the door and the wall opposite mark a line perpendicular you’re tiling. Make sure the line is vertical by holding a carpenter’s square . Remove.
Lay a row of tiles along the line you have marked between the doorway and wall. Don’t use any tile glue. Position spacers between the tiles to be certain the gaps between them are uniform.
Lay a very long bit of wood that’s 1 inch thick perpendicular to the row of tiles when you reach the point at which you can no longer put a full-sized tile. Secure the wood into the ground using a screw gun, and put tiles along it in both directions from all sides of the last tile of this original row. Yet again, use spacers to make sure the tiles remain an even distance apart.
Alter each row of tiles to make equal borders . Mark a chalk line on these borders, and remove the first row of tiles that you laid.
Putting the Tiles
Distribute a thick, even layer of tile glue measuring 2 feet by 2 feet with a trowel at your starting point. Lay tiles in addition to it, working them. Use spacers to ensure they are still an even distance apart. Ensure also they are completely level with each other. If necessary, tap on them with a rubber mallet to force them further.
Spread the following layer of tile glue with the first, and put tiles on it. Continue until of the tiles are laid. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly.
Prepare your advantage tiles once you can safely walk to the tiles you have already laid. Lay a tile you set. Place the period of wood you used when laying of tiling from the wall the rows. Line up its edges with the tile that you just placed on top of this last one, and Put a tile from the wood you placed in the glue. Create a line on the tile along the border of the tile.
Place the loose tile together with the line on other surface or a workbench. Score along the line with a tile or glass cutter, and transfer the tile into the border of this surface. Lay the tile along the line. This will give you a bit of tiling the correct size for the edge. Use this as a template to burn more identically sized bits until you have sufficient for your edge.
Lay pieces of tile glue and position the edge tiling. Yet again, use spacers to make sure even distances between tiles and make sure the top layer of the border tiles is flat with the rest of the ground. Leave the tile glue to dry for the time recommended by the manufacturer.
Prepare that grout and disperse at a 45-degree angle into the tiles with a rubber float. Work it and remove excess with a damp sponge. When the grout has dried, go back with a mop to remove all traces of it in the tile surface.
Mop the floor each day. This will permit the grout. One week paint a silicone sealer on it.
Related Posts
